KENT, Conn.—Look. Smell. Taste. Feel. Repeat.
Cheesemonger Kate Truini-Redin introduced more than 25 cheese-enthusiasts from Kent and beyond to the steps of describing, tasting and pairing cheeses last Sunday, March 23, at Kent Memorial Library. The special event, “Meet Your Monger: A Tour of New England Cheeses,” treated attendees to a sampling of five different cheeses, all cultivated in Connecticut.
Truini-Redin, owner of New Curds On the Block in Oakville, Conn., buys cheeses directly from dairy farms around the state, with the intention of decreasing the number of steps to get the cheese from farm to table.
Sunday’s samples included cheeses from Rowland Farm Creamery, Oxford; Cato Corner Farm, Colchester, and Mystic Cheese Company, Groton.
She said cheeses are described by their style and milk type. Styles include fresh, bloomy, washed, semi-firm, hard and blue; milks can be from cows, sheep, goats, buffalo and more.
Sunday’s nibbles were all cow cheeses, although of different styles. Truini-Redin led guests through a guided tasting, starting with the freshest soft cheese and continuing to the hardest aged cheese, in this case, Black Ledge Blue from Cato Corner.
The primer taught attendees to use as many senses as possible to assess the cheeses:
- Look: visual cues including texture and color
- Feel: in hands, mouth and on palate
- Smell: milky, buttery, nutty, funky or complex
- Flavor: short- or long-lasting
Truini-Redin described cheese as being “alive.” Thus, there is a bell curve of timing in which to enjoy eating a cheese—not too soon, not too late. For example, fresh cheeses should be enjoyed three to five days after culturing. Softer cheeses are quicker to culture but have a shorter shelf-life than semi-firm and hard cheeses.
She noted that refrigeration slows fermentation. Truini-Redin explained that when planning for a party or charcuterie, allowing cheeses to be at room temperature for a few hours before guests arrive improves the taste.
When cutting cheese, include the rind in each piece, she instructed, emphasizing that the rinds of cheeses are edible.
As far as pairing cheeses with food and drink, Truini-Redin said there are two main principals: like with like, and opposites attract. Expanding on like with like, she said, “if it grows together, it goes together.” French cheeses, for instance, pair well with French wines and fruits. Opposites can be played against each other by pairing soft cheeses with bubbly wines, or tangy cheese with honey, figs or apricots.
At the end of the session, attendees were able to buy their favorite Connecticut cheese(s) and ask questions.
Locals may recognize Truini-Redin as a staple at farmers markets in the area. Unfortunately, she will not be a regular vendor at the Kent Farmers Market this summer. She and her husband, Zach Redin, fishmonger and owner of To the Gills, can be found at their new shop in Oakville, Conn., and at nearby farmers markets starting in May.
The local shop and cafe, 109 Cheese Market in the Kent Green, also has knowledgeable mongers for those who do not want to wait until the farmers market season to test their cheese know-how.
Brittany McAllister, Kent Memorial Library’s Adult Programming and Special Events director, said of the event, “This cheese tasting program is a perfect example of why I love my job at the library. We brought together Kent residents and guests from around the county to explore our library, learn something new, and support a local monger and New England cheese makers. The connections made between patrons and the library will continue on well past the event.”
